The towering cypress trees immediately bring to mind Italy; palm trees grow behind the house, and the boxwood hedges form labyrinthine, intricate patterns—truly, the gardens at the Listmann Winery evoke another place, another time. But we’re in Rheinhessen; just a few kilometers away lies the Palatinate, which is often called the “Tuscany of Germany.” “I’m always thrilled when I drive over the Brenner Pass and see the cypress trees,” enthuses Eckhard Listmann: “We could have gardens just like the ones there.”

Forty years ago, Eckhard Listmann fell in love with the Victorian garden style. It was in Bonn, where Listmann was studying agricultural sciences; he liked to take his books with him to the botanical garden. And there, the young man discovered the landscaped gardens of a bygone era—and was fascinated.

Today, 2,500 boxwood plants form two large rondelles and countless hedges in his garden in Dorn-Dürkheim; the rondelles are trimmed into wheel-shaped stars. Cypresses and palm trees grow here; two Mediterranean fig trees add to the Mediterranean flair; sculptures and large Italian vases decorate the lawns and paths—even a banana tree spreads its broad leaves. “Everything grows here,” says Listmann. It is the mild and, above all, dry climate of Rheinhessen that allows the exotic plants to thrive just as well as the grapes in the vineyards surrounding the village.

It was in 1853 when the first Listmann arrived in Dorn-Dürkheim to grow grapes here and turn them into the light, delicately fruity wines for which the southern part of Rheinhessen is famous today. Dorn-Dürkheim is a wine village with a dozen or so wineries packed into a very small area, just beyond the edge of the Rhine Valley. The Listmanns cultivate 30 hectares of vineyards; together with his sons Welf and Leif, Eckhard Listmann produces mineral-driven, elegant Burgundies, Muskatellers, and, of course, Rieslings here.

In 2003, they planted their first Cabernet Sauvignon; today, a red wine cuvée made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir bears the name “1853.” “The climate here favors these grape varieties,” says Leif. And yes, climate change is helping ensure that these southern grape varieties also produce rich and fruity wines here, both by the glass and in bottles. In 2013, Leif spent nine weeks in New Zealand, tasting his way across the South and North Islands, and returned with a keen nose for Sauvignon Blanc.

In 2003, the Listmanns decided to say goodbye to farming sugar beets and wheat and focus entirely on viticulture. Times were tough for traditional farming, but the outlook for viticulture was good. "You had to move with the times," says Eckhard Listmann, "I saw more opportunities in viticulture." Today, their best-selling wine is a Blanc de Noir made from Merlot, and customers are often queuing up for the light rosé wine, which is made from the first pressing of the juice.

Leif points to an enchanting, romantic seating area in front of the old field barn. Inside, the barn now houses a modern, cozy wine tavern where they serve Mediterranean antipasti or young bull roast beef in brandy and pepper sauce.

From the terrace, the view naturally extends to the garden with its boxwood circle and yew tree in the center. Today, the three-tiered tree is the trademark of the Listmann Winery. If there was ever a winery for which the Best of Wine Tourism Award in the category of Architecture, Parks, and Gardens was invented, it was for this place.

Behind the main house is a glass and steel tea pavilion, the Listmann family's personal refuge, a retreat surrounded by exotic plants, like a vacation away from home. Every morning, Eckhard Listmann takes a walk through his garden, looking for new ideas that are yet to come. "It's not finished yet," he says.