Habitats for insects are diverse. These can include flower meadows, wet meadows, margins (persistent strips of native grasses and herbs), hedges with shrubs of varying sizes, orchards on extensively farmed land, and areas of wild herbs in fields.

Annual flowers, annual and perennial herbs, perennial shrubs, and bulbous plants are important sources of pollen and nectar for pollinators. Shrubs and trees also play a role. The more diverse the landscape, the more habitat it offers insects.

A meadow or flower meadow is a mixture of grasses and herbs native to the area, which, when cared for, form a permanent, self-sustaining, characteristic plant community at the respective location. In contrast to lawns or intensively used grassland, the grasses and herbs in a flower meadow have time to complete their development until seed maturity.

For an insect-friendly flower strip, you definitely need a sunny spot in your garden. The garden soil in this spot must be open, i.e., free of vegetation, weeds, and stones. If you don't have space in your garden or only have a sunny balcony, you can also use large pots or boxes.

Insect-friendly flower meadows attract wild bees, including bumblebees, honey bees, butterflies, flies, and beetles. Did you know that some species of flies and beetles also pollinate flowers? Wild bees and butterflies are very selective flower visitors, while other insects take a sip of nectar and pollinate "on the side." These include hoverflies, which can easily be confused with wasps or bees. Among beetles, the most species-rich animal group on the planet, there are also many flower visitors. They also help with pollination.

We need flower seeds to create a blooming landscape. But which seeds should we use?

Most of the seeds available at garden centers, hardware stores, supermarkets, and many nurseries are cultivated varieties of foreign species. These are often marketed as "flower meadows" or even "bee food." At first glance, they are visually attractive and therefore popular purchases, but unfortunately they help very few insects. This is because native insects have adapted to native wild plants over millions of years. Many specialists even need very specific native plant species to survive.

Flower mixtures that primarily contain seeds from native plant species provide insects—especially the often highly specialized wild bees and butterflies—with the necessary building, nesting, and food resources. From a nature conservation perspective, the place of origin of the seed and the place of use should be as compatible as possible and located in close proximity to each other. The seed is then "native to the area" and ensures that regional genetic specialties are preserved. It is therefore advisable to use certified seed according to VWW-Regiosaaten® or RegioZert® standards. You will find relevant information in the list of links at the end of the article, including how to purchase small quantities.

Prepare the soil: Loosen the open garden soil (which you have previously cleared of stones and weeds) with a hoe. If you have very rich soil in your garden, you should thin it out with sand, as most wildflowers prefer poor soil. To do this, work the sand into the soil. Rake everything fairly smooth until you have a level "seedbed" without any hollows or mounds.

Sowing: April—and, if it is not too hot, the following months—is a good time to sow flower mixtures. The seeds must be distributed as evenly as possible. Apply the amount of seed according to the instructions (the guideline is approximately five to ten grams per square meter). To help with sowing, mix the seeds with a little sand or sawdust, for example. Scatter the seeds loosely and evenly over the soil, work them into the soil only superficially and – very important – press them down a little. This works well with a roller or a board.

Watering: The area must be kept moist for the next 4 to 6 weeks so that the seeds germinate well. The first seedlings will soon appear and your flowering area will develop quite quickly.

Care: Depending on the altitude and weather conditions, mowing should take place in mid-June at the earliest and not before the flowering phase of the main grasses. Mow a maximum of twice a year. The best times for mowing are from July to August/September if mowing only once. If mowing twice, mid/late June and late August are ideal. Mow "alternately" and not all at once. This gives species with a later reproduction time a chance and also allows the animals in the meadow to move. Mowing with a scythe is ideal for this.

Please do not mulch! When mulching, clippings and nutrients remain on the surface. However, many flowering plants are not very competitive and need poor soil. On nutrient-rich areas, only a few competitive species gradually prevail. Mulching also directly destroys many species. Insects, beetles, and smaller animals cannot escape and are chopped up with the plants.

Be patient: Meadows need some time to get started, but patience is rewarded: The most beautiful variety of flowers often appears after a few years.